With the family on a large yacht in Croatia.
An unforgettable (family) adventure
Sailing has been with me since childhood – from Optimist to Laser, larger dinghies, First Class 8 and later a historic sailboat from the 60s, which almost led to the separation of me and my wife due to the amount of work involved.
Sailing with the FAMILY?
Fortunately, things continued with the latter and we now have 2 wonderful children, who I naturally want to introduce to sailing. Our older son (10 years) already has his first dinghy experience and the little one (7 years) would also like to go sailing with dad this year (fun). But garnishing the vacation considerations with the “sailing” facet also seemed like a daring undertaking. Nevertheless, I decided to make the suggestion to my family. And lo and behold – he found open ears. Although my very structured wife, who weighs up all eventualities, had a bit more of a headache than on a “conventional” vacation trip.
What about safety with the kids on board? What if one of us gets seasick? What if one of us doesn’t like it? The weather doesn’t cooperate? Admittedly, there were initially more question marks than with many other vacation preparations, but once the first-aid kit was sufficiently stocked, the remaining questions were also clarified and so, in continuation of the initial positive feedback, the decision was finally made – we are going sailing – as a family, on the large yacht Kairos, on the Croatian Adriatic coast, which is considered a beginner’s area and should offer an ideal environment for sailing newcomers with its many islands and moderate winds.
The routing depends on the wind and weather, but at least the start and finish ports are set. In our case, these are Cavtat and Trogir. Ideally, the route should also include stopovers on the islands of Mljet, Korčula, Hvar and Vis.
Cavtat: The picturesque starting point
After the almost two-hour flight from Frankfurt and a short cab ride from Dubrovnik airport, we find ourselves in the enchanting Cavtat south of Dubrovnik, which is known for its idyllic old town and lush Mediterranean vegetation. Waiting for the ship’s own dinghy to take us on board, we linger with the kids over cappuccino and hot chocolate in the Ivan restaurant right by the harbor and enjoy the maritime flair of this small coastal town in the best weather. Off the coast you can already see the Kairos at anchor and the children quickly discover the dinghy heading for the harbor. Soli – a tanned man in his late thirties steers the dinghy directly towards the restaurant and asks us to get in with a relaxed smile. Let the adventure begin.
lasting impressions
On the Kairos, we are greeted warmly by the entire crew and as soon as we set foot on deck, a cool welcome drink is in our hands. Luggage already stowed in the cabin. Everyday life is a long way off (it should become even more distant in the coming days). We have arrived on our personal (sailing) adventure.
The fact that the anchor is not weighed on this evening does not detract from the great atmosphere on board and so we quickly get to know each other over dinner and while marveling at the breathtaking sunset.
Mljet: The green oasis
The next day, after breakfast and the obligatory safety briefing by the crew, island hopping is on the agenda. With a light breeze and moderate swell, we set sail to continue our journey to the first island, Mljet, after a short sightseeing tour of Dubrovnik from on board.
The island, one of the greenest islands in Croatia, is home to the Mljet National Park, a true paradise for nature lovers. The turquoise water and the lush vegetation conveyed a feeling of peace and seclusion, which was only enhanced by the gentle rocking of our large yacht. The relaxation was also noticeable in our children. Deep sleep at night and the occasional nap during the day. Instead of tablets and the like, you can listen to audio games while watching the fascinating surroundings, the crew and the boat in action. The SUP is often the focal point for the children, while the adults explore the cool water by swimming. Anchored in a secluded bay in the middle of the national park, we round off the somewhat cloudy evening with another perfectly tasty treat from our young chef Igor and a glass of rose.
Korčula: The birthplace of Marco Polo
After the previous day full of nature experiences, we continue the tour through the Mljet National Park in the same way the next day straight after breakfast, where we also stop for lunch and a swim. We reach our next destination, Korčula, under sail. Often referred to as “little Dubrovnik”, the old town impresses with its well-preserved medieval walls, narrow alleyways and charming squares. We also visit the alleged birthplace of Marco Polo, which offers an insight into the life of the famous explorer. Our children are enthralled by the stories about his adventures and feel like little explorers themselves as they run through the historic alleyways.
While the other guests continue to explore the city, we make our way to a small pebble beach for a swim before our pick-up time, which the children had spotted from on board. After our visit to this bustling town, the Kairos welcomes us with its cozy cabins and spacious teak deck and offers us a comfortable retreat where we can unwind after this excursion. Another evening at anchor, surrounded by numerous islets, an impressive sunset and stimulating conversations awaits. Unsurprisingly, this is exactly what happened.
Badija
The next morning, after breakfast, we decide to pay a visit to the island of Badija, which is very close to our anchorage. The highlight of the island is probably the magnificent, monumental Franciscan monastery, which was built at the end of the 15th century and became a religious, cultural and educational center. But the one-hour walk around the island is also recommended. In addition to the light scent of pine wood, we are accompanied by trusting, wild deer and stags that roam all over the island. (The picture shows the youngest and oldest guest with an age difference of more than 70 years in a lively exchange about the flora and fauna of the island).
from fishing & stars
At the same time as the espresso after lunch, the anchor chain clicks and we set sail for Lastovo. A wonderful afternoon under full sail, with a stop for coffee and cake in the middle of one of the more than 50 small offshore island groups. According to our captain Joan, this is where numerous pirates once sought shelter and sometimes lived for months in the most basic of conditions.
Inspired by this story, our children (with the friendly support of the tech-savvy crew) immediately set about building fishing rods to put this traditional way of obtaining food to the test. After asking the ship’s cook about possible bait options, he first sends them into the race with dry bread. After recording the wishes of which guest would like to eat which fish for dinner, the fishing rods are cast. John the ship mechanic also follows this example. However, after more than an hour without even a fly approaching the fishing routes, we are surprised by an already prepared salmon in combination with vegetable rice, zucchini salsa and hollandaise sauce from the kitchen. After a cozy get-together, a clear and intense starry sky appears in the darkness of the night, which we literally gaze at for quite some time.
calm & serenity
After breakfast and a short dinghy visit to an old submarine bunker, we weigh anchor and set our sights on our destination for the day, Hvar.
After a passable sailing stage (the wind has fortunately developed a little), the port of Hvar welcomes us with a lively atmosphere and after a short tour we don’t miss the opportunity to climb up to the Španjola fortress, which towers majestically over the town, to catch the view of the harbor basin and our Kairos from above. But we don’t want to stay long, it’s too hectic, too busy – after a short time we miss the peace and quiet on the ship. As soon as we get on board, we are physically back after a short time and enjoy the emerging evening atmosphere as we jump into the water and then enjoy a sundowner.
Our anchorage – a small, tranquil bay a little east of Hvar that we share with 3 small charter yachts that evening. We have one thing in common – dinner at the nearby Moli Onte restaurant. Charming, small, family-run – the latter is evident from the moment you are picked up in an old fishing boat by the owners’ son and grandson. The numerous fish dishes and the homemade house wine are excellent and the evening is a worthy celebration of our family sailing trip in Croatia.
the penultimate day
The clock is running in reverse – the days and hours until departure are now being counted and we are already missing the Kairos, the crew and our fellow travelers. Because one thing we realize today is that it is more than just being a guest on this ship – it has become a familiar environment, a friendly atmosphere, almost like a family.
Fortunately, the melancholy is blown away by a fresh breeze on this day and we can already look back on a great sailing experience at lunch in front of Vis. After a short shore leave and a visit to the old town, we immediately set sail again in the direction of Komiza, the second largest settlement on Vis, and circumnavigate the island in a southerly direction. We drop anchor in a bay off Komiza. The wind only calms down late and so we sit aft with the canopy closed and have dinner together, reviewing the intensive day of sailing.
sailing - simply beautiful
Immediately after breakfast, the children rush to the nearby coast for a round of SUP. After visiting a small pristine pebble beach, we discover a cave inhabited by bats and a number of purple starfish.
The wind picks up and we set off towards the ship to sail together towards our destination port of Trogir. With wind forces of up to 6 at times, the Kairos stoically makes its way through the choppy sea. My daughter and I enjoy the crossing on the foredeck and marvel at the wave formations that form between the Kairos and the coastline.
between the art of brewing & melancholy
After lunch and a short stopover in Dvrenik Veli (including a tasting of a locally brewed pale ale), we head to a bay near Trogir. We anchor here and get in the mood for the following Captain’s Dinner with cocktails and sunset. Contact details are exchanged, upcoming vacation plans are shared, the children now support the service as permanent staff and the week is relived in anecdotes from various speakers.
There it is again, the aforementioned melancholy.
