It was a dream trip... Every morning during the RHEA cruise I got up in the dark and, after greeting the night shift crew, sat down on a bench with a headlamp and started writing into the dawn. Organizing your life - is there a better way to do this than during a three-week crossing through an empty world (which is by no means empty under the keel)? ... A wonderful time, ... especially the two stops that allowed us to take a dip in the 5,000 meter deep Atlantic. So all this will remain unforgettable, a lifelong dream...